The Little Screen

Continue reading Sara Sehnaoui, who conceived the idea behind Dawawine three years ago, sits on a vintage armchair opposite Abed Kobeissy, a musicologist and musician also involved in the project. ‘There is no specialised library in Lebanon, it doesn’t exist,’ he says. ‘Specialist books can only be found inside campuses that are accessible to those […]

Looking for Palestine

Continue reading Born in America to a Lebanese mother and Palestinian father – the late, great Edward Said – like other daughters of professors from nearby Columbia University, Said grew up on these streets. And has stayed ever since. A year and a half ago, she took the decision to move from her apartment of […]

The Man from Momo

Continue reading But with tea and the burnoose, perched on multi-coloured chairs with high backs scrolled into flaunting arabesques, it isn’t. And Mazouz is immune to the weather, it seems. ‘I have no interest in anything that I cannot change,’ he says, ‘and the weather is one of them.’ His hospitality is another – ‘I […]

The Mosque in the Snow

Continue reading These minarets frame the worship hall, which is accessed via a main entrance made up of a series of expanding triangles. The entire body of the mosque is built according to a strictly geometric plan, appearing like a deconstructed cube when viewed from above. Such a modern façade is at once both intimidating […]

The Trans Asia Express

Continue reading [split] Passengers aboard the weekly 10.35am Ankara to Tehran Trans Asia Express begin that lesson as they board. Now Turkey’s diplomatic capital, Ankara was a dusty rail town before the country’s inception in 1923. The German train pioneers, who had laid their tracks across Anatolia a decade before, decided to centre the rail […]

Signs of the Times

Continue reading Khaled’s business has been situated in Jabal Al Nuzha, where Alazaat’s parents live, for decades. Two years ago, his small shop was little more than a discrete, somewhat dilapidated dent in the worn down walls of his street, undistinguished by any kind of marker that could point passersby towards his skills. Alazaat and […]

Sleepless in Marrakech

Continue reading Overlooking an emerald tiled courtyard with a grove of banyan, bamboo, orange and palm trees at its centre, Ayron’s patio is her own little paradise. ‘It’s like Brazil downstairs,’ she says, referring to Le Jardin, a restaurant in the Mouassine district of Marrakech’s old city that lies beneath the Pop Up Shop. Its […]